13. Barstow to Ludlow, CA, USA

Today I learned to check not just the temperature and precipitation predictions, but also, and most importantly, the wind report. Otherwise, I could be in for a wild ride.

I had an inkling the air was on a tear when I pulled onto the freeway out of Barstow. A crosswind puffed up and about blew me into traffic. I wound up walking the half mile before the road turned and put the breeze at my back.

From then on, the wind only grew stronger. Little did I realize that the National Weather Service had issued a high wind advisory, foretelling 35 mph winds with gusts up to 50 mph. Happily / insanely for me, the wind was coming from the west, so it was all tailwinds, all the time. The two times my route crossed the wind, I had to walk, and that with a lot of struggle.

Eighteen wheelers began to pull off the road. Dust storms formed to the north. A weird dark column appeared like a UFO contrail.

For the last 10 miles of my ride, I was cruising at 35 mph without pedaling. I considered stopping a couple of times to take pictures, but then decided against it. The wind could easily push me over while straddling my bike.

When I arrived at Ludlow, I had to cross the wind to reach my motel. It took all my strength to walk my bike without falling over.

At the motel, several campers and motorcyclists had pulled in, seeking shelter from the storm. One kind man, Mike, and his daughter, Olivia, shared a few of the gems they had hunted before the weather turned and flatted their tire.

The upside of foul weather is that it can make fast friends. Nevertheless, I am hoping for calmer winds tomorrow.

Despite the wind rodeo, or perhaps because of it, I managed to conduct my first ethnographic interview with a Chevron attendant. My goal is to talk to one person per day and ask these four questions:

1. How would you describe yourself?

2. What do people get wrong about you or misunderstand about you?

3. What are you proudest of in your life?

4. What is your biggest hope or dream?

   
   

For the first days of my ride, I was too preoccupied (and too shy? me? It happens....) to do interviews. But now that I'm finding my rhythm, the researcher in me is emerging

Distance: 52.51 mi / 84.5 km

Climbing: 1339 ft / 408 m

Totals: 696 mi / 1,119 km; 26,263 ft / 8,005 m

Sleep Spot: Ludlow Motel

Song: “Big Time Sensuality” by Björk, especially the line, "It takes courage to enjoy it"

Route: