158. Suza to Vukovar, Croatia

September 16, 2024

Miles: 51.8. Total: 7,003.

I'm a Teletubby from the future, here to mop up your hazmat spill.

That's how I felt today in my rain suit, padded by a wool base layer, bibs, jersey, wind vest, and puffy jacket. The "from the future" bit comes from the rearview mirror affixed to my glasses, which has inspired so many questions from strangers that I now jokingly reply, "I'm from the future, where everyone wears rearview mirrors."

Although the low was only 45, the wind and rain were fierce, prompting me to stop at a gazebo in the Kopački Rit wetland preserve to add a few layers. As I did, a flock of swans flew overhead, thrumming an otherwordly call I'd never heard before.

As was the case yesterday, the weather convinced me to cut my ride early so that I could warm up, eat a good dinner, and dry my clothes before tomorrow.

I found the nicest B&B, Vila Rosa, in Vukovar, a city that was largely flattened during the Yugoslav Wars. Indeed, a shelled railroad station sign welcomed me to the city. Many other bombed out buildings still remain. The innkeeper, Nikolina, recounted that she was a refugee for ten years before being able to return to Vukovar.

In 1995, I traveled through Croatia by train during the Yugoslav Wars. I had met some nice Cambridge boys in Budapest. They had a friend whose family had a villa in Bohinj, Slovenia, and they invited me to come along to visit him.

I remember feeling a little concerned about passing through Croatia, but not concerned enough to pass up a lakeside retreat with fun and attractive boys. Seeing the Vukovar train sign, I now understand just how close the chaos was.

Bicycling through Europe now, with its many layers of war, I understand how close we always are to chaos.